Flying Wheel, by Paul Del Gatto

This article descibing the model (M.A. 191) and its construction appeared in Model Aircraft magazine, p. 316 – but what issue date? Let's know if you know.

Ever since flying saucers became front-page material for newspapers, our interest in them his steadily increased.  Within the list few years we've built and flown no less than half a dozen saucer configurations, both F/F and C/L.

For the most part these designs were very successful, but even when successful we never got the feeling that we had really achieved something unique in model aircraft.  The reason we felt this way was because we had not simulated what might be envisioned as a true flying saucer.  Our designs were all propeller driven by either an engine or rubber motor with but one exception, which was powered by a Jetex 50 unit externally mounted.

The latter design most closely approached our recent endeavor with but one very important exception.  While our past designs derived their lift through forward routine, our summit eminence or recent endeavor derives its lift through rotary motion.

When the Jetex fuses are ignited the model begins to rotate and in a matter of seconds begins its ascent.  The upward journey continues for approximately eight seconds, continually accelerating until the power is expended and the model is about 150 to 200 ft. in the air.  Approximately five to six seconds are expended in accelerating for takeoff.  Coming down, the model spins in the reverse direction until it finally settles down to earth.

Click image for full-size plan

While construction of the model differs from that of conventional models, it is nonetheless very easy.  The most important things to bear in mind are correct alignment of all parts, and a light but strong framework.  To begin construction, start by cutting out all the required parts, taking care that the correct texture of wood is used throughout.  The inner and outer rims are then pinned in place on the plan.  If you experience difficulty in bending it in the circular shape, it is advisable to soak the wood in warm water and pre-bend to the appropriate shape.

Next, construct the four-bladed propeller and cement the 1/32 in. sheet disc to the propeller hub; the remainder of the disc hub is located after it is removed from the plan. Locating and cementing the vanes in position require the maximum amount of effort and care.  Begin at any position and cement them in place in a clockwise direction with the correct helical twist.  Now that the frame has been removed from the plan, complete the 1/32-in. sheet balsa hub assembly and cover the propeller hubs with tissue as indicated.

To the inside edge of the cone rim where the Jetex units are to be mounted, cement a 1/16 in. plywood base through which the mounting bolts can eventually be inserted.  The outer periphery that encloses the Jetex units is constructed entirely of 1/32-in. sheet balsa.  To begin, first bolt the Jetex mount in position and center the retaining wall in position, checking carefully with the Jetex unit itself to see that it is in the correct position. Then cement the upper and lower surfaces in position to the outer rim and the retaining wall. When completed, cement the 1/32 in. sheet balsa edge in place.

An essential precaution is to line the Jetex housing, and four to five inches of the outer periphery, with asbestos, as indicated on the plan.  This will eliminate scorching or burning of the model.  In order to keep the model light, do not use any colored dopes in applying a finish. However, if you would like a little color in your model, it is suggested that you mix dye with a small amount of water and alcohol to your clear dope.  In this manner a good-looking finish can be applied without worrying about excessive weight.  Apply three or four coats of thinned down dope, gently sanding with fine sandpaper between each coat.

Scintillatin' Saucer, by Larry Conover

Click the image to view or download the half-size plan.
Larry Conover design for a 13-inch [33 cm] flying disc powered by twin Jetex 50 engines.  This model launches from a pinwheel pedestal. It's described as an "all-weather flyer."  Maybe the answer to windy day flying sport in New Mexico? The article, from Flying Models, has this to say:

Werner von Braun, the NASA, and also the Russkies will take a back seat when you FM fans launch this sizzling satellite.  Back in the fall of '51, reports were going around that had the local milk brewers reaching for their shotguns.  The U.F.O. scare was in full swing.  Eyewitness accounts from the pasture on the south forty indicated that Old Bossy was kicking up her heels at a new kind of flying pest. So ...

I was forced to move saucer testing operations into the hills.  It was just as well. Some of the early models, upon reaching maximum rotational velocity, would disintegrate in mid-air.

Here is a typical test run of saucer No. 2.  Jetex engines loaded and mounted. Starter punk smoking. Wind SW at two mph. Fire one! Fire two! Pull fuse wires. Slow rotation begins. Then a rapid increase as the engines build up pressure. BLAST-OFF in five seconds after firing.

The test vehicle has risen from the launching tower, and ascends at a steadily increasing rate. Blue exhaust smoke funnels down from the center. Slight drifting off course.  Altitude, seventy-five feet.  One hundred. One hun -- WHAM!  Oh oh, somebody pushed the panic button.

Launch is from a low tower

What was once a carefully engineered maze . . . Now is shattered sticks and paper tumbling down to earth. Back to the drawing board.

All that's cleared up now. Installation of a "panic wire" holds the two engine mounts together. It takes loads imposed by centrifugal force at high rotational speeds.

Click image for half-size plan

Ready to start your space-saucer? Ok, find a gallon jug.  And, after cutting several strips of 1/16 x 3/8 medium balsa (long grain A stock), soak them in water for ten minutes. Then wrap them carefully around the jug and let dry overnight. If you are in a hurry, bake it in oven at 250 degrees.

While you're waiting, cut out thirty-two lift vanes from 1/32 light C grain balsa. Take note: the lighter the craft, the higher it goes.  Draw the two circles, using compass shown on plans. When laying down the rims, place pins on either side of the balsa, not through it.  Outer rim is longer than three feet, so use two pieces and join them at engine mount positions.  Tailor the distance between rims by placing lift vanes at intervals around the circle during pin-down operation.

Install the vanes, and go easy on the glue.  Best to thin it out with acetone.  Measure positions for the first two vanes, but after that just "eyeball" them in.  Next comes the center fan. It's just a plain four-bladed built-up indoor prop. Follow the plans.  Make sure all your blades are right hand, and match the direction of the outer vanes.  A large pinhole in the center is reinforced with bead bearings, well cemented. This must be strong.

The engine clips are glued and screwed into place, being careful to point each one in the proper direction. He sure to bend the tops over (check plan) to prevent engines flying loose in mid air.  Install the "panic wire" by drilling a small hole in the center of the engine clip. Bring the wire through and wrap a turn around the mounting screws. The wire should stretch tightly between the two mounts and pass on the under side of the prop blades.

A small piece of aluminum foil should be glued to the rim in the exhaust area.

Cover the top only of the prop blades with light tissue.  Two coats of thin clear dope, with none on outer blades.  Last operation, balance saucer with engines out.  Use wire for axis. Hold ship vertical and give it a spin. Place a bit of clay opposite the heavy side.

No need to construct a launching tower for first test.  Place a 0.032 wire axis in the end of a stick. Hold overhead after lighting fuses.  Do not release until you are in orbit.

To insure successful launchings: Load engines carefully.  Make one fuse longer, so both engines fire about the same time.  Always use a punk, or piece of DT fuse for lighting.  Pull fuses on the dot.  When flying in the wind, give your saucer a booster spin to help get it going.  Stand back.  It skims low downwind for the first fifty feet.

On a quiet evening your snappy satellite will ascend to 300 feet directly overhead, pause lazily at the top, reverse direction, and spin gliding down like an aerial elevator.  If saucer fails re-entry as programmed, notify Bob and Ray, Lost and Found Space Vehicles, Interstellar City, Earth.

From Flying Models publication "A Decade of Designs II, 1956-1966".

Flying Wheels, by Claude R. de Vries

Click image for full-size plan for Jetex 100s
Click image for full-size plan for Jetex 50s